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The Pony Boot Project

Pony Toes

INGREDIENTS:

1 x pair of platform boots sans heel – available through Ruby Fashions at E-bay. However due to some issues with postage and after sales service, I cannot recommend them and do suggest you shop there at your own risk.

They are available by auction – anywhere from 1.99 Euro to however high they go; or if you get them on buy it now they are 140 Euro approx – reduced from 218 Euro.  Please remember these are not of a high quality; they are not leather; and are not worth the high ‘Buy it Now’ prices.

For those who marvel at the ability of some to walk in these, get a pair and have a go yourself. They are VERY easy.  Nothing to shout about at all – for those who feel they completely lack skill.

They are available in mid calf, ankle and knee high.  Red, Black and White. I know there is another supplier with nicer colour ways, but I have yet to locate them. I have the style numbers so I will look around and let you know.

1 x 100mm x 9.15mm length of Balsa Wood – $10.50

Paper pattern – the top part of the platform is slightly larger than the base so you will have to measure carefully the diameter of the platform.  The shoe size I modified is a 37, quite small and I imagine the platforms are not the same size as the shoes increase in size.  I will upload an image file of the pattern I used, and you can modify that to fit the size of the platform on your boots.

Selleys All Fix Bond $15

18 fluted wooden pegs 12mm in length (pack of 100 only for $10)

1 x Flat wood rasp $20

1 x Round wood file $12

Coarse, medium and fine sandpaper $5.00

Wet & Dry Sandpaper $5.00

Hacksaw – Junior version $4.50

Hand saw – ummm. Garden variety $85.00

Acrylic paint of your choice (the fumes of the oil based stuff kill me so I use it sparingly)  – $5

Vibram shoe sole (sheet cost me $18)

British Paints Polyeurathane High Gloss finish – $32

High quality (not cheap craft fur) fake fur.  It really makes a HUGE difference if you want to use it.  The white fur comes in at about $60 a metre, as does the beige.  However, since you use so little it might be possible at your fabric supplier to only buy a 10-20cm width, which reduces the cost considerably.

RECIPE:

Measure 19mm from where toe platform meets the upper at intervals around the platform. Join the line. This is your cut line. Ensure the measurements on both platforms are the same.

Using the saw of your choice – cut the platform.  I used my garden saw.  lol

Fill the holes of the platform with All Fix and push the pegs into the holes.  Clean up any excess glue.  Stand boots upside down so gravity can do its work.

Wait. Drying can take up to 24 hours depending on the weather. I didn’t take a photo at this stage, so what you see above, actually contradicts the method.  Don’t worry,  it’s a photo from a little further along the way…

CUTTING WOODEN COLLARS

While you’re waiting for the glue to dry take your hacksaw and cut around the pattern lines. As you can see, I’m very conservative with this, as I believe it’s easier to take off; but not so easy to add back on.

Slide the upper collar onto the platform – and then glue all around it, and slide the lower collar onto the platform.  They should be a nice tight fit, fill any gaps with the All Fix. Let dry.

SCULPTING THE COLLARS – TAKE OFF METHOD

As you can see from the images (hopefully) the majority of the top layer is angled to meet with the lower portion of the bottom collar.  This is done to form a “hoof” shape.

As this is done by eye no two pair of boots will be the same. Brilliant!

It took me a few hours to shape the heels to satisfaction.   As you can see, the next step in the process is creating a nicer shape up the back of the boot and removing the harsh line between the wood and the original heel material.  I sanded back the wood to smooth before I began the next step.

SCULPTING THE HEEL – ADD ON METHOD

It’s important that you only ever apply thin layers of the All Fix and allow them to dry in between.  I took a good quality flat sable brush (15mm wide) and applied a thin coat of All Fix over the whole platform, and up the back of the boot.   I allowed this to dry.  You will see there is a gap that needs to be filled with All Fix to create the smoothness up the back of the boot.

This will take 24 hours to dry and should not be touched or sanded until you are sure it’s completely set.  Continue to add thin layers of the All fix, until you have a smooth and pleasing line up the back and joining sides of the boot and added platform.   You can sand this until it is completely smooth and correct any bumps or unpleasing lines at this stage.

Final rough coat, before final sand to smooth

PAINTING & DECORATING

As if this isn’t my favourite step!

I started by applying a base of acrylic undercoat to seal the base. I applied this over the platform and existing heel.  Then, I tried a beige colour, a sand colour – natural horse hoof colours and it wasn’t so pleasing to my eye.   I bit the bullet, got out the silver paint and went for it. Between each layer, the paint was fully dried and lightly sanded.

I applied three coats of the final colour (making about 7 in all but you don’t have to do that as it’s probably overkill).

Then I applied a British Paints Polyeurathane High Gloss finish. I applied 4 coats allowing each to dry in between, and lightly sanded before the next layer was applied.

I have “The Craft Cupboard Nirvana” here.   I do quite a bit of sewing and creating and already had the fake fur.  I do say above to make sure you use the really good quality fake fur (approx. $50-70 a metre) over the craft fur (approx $14 a metre) as it gives a better result. I can’t stress this enough!!!

Stick it where you think you want it.  That’s about all I can say to you.  I think we all have different ideas about this subject.  I love the feather footed Clydesdale horse.  So, my inspiration comes from the furry-footed horse, more than the shorter haired varieties.

DISCLAIMER

As with all projects, the end result is really up to the person with the tools in their hand.  This is not the definitive tutorial for modifying existing boots into pony heels; just another one.  What I offer here is simple methods, simple tools and the skill, care attention and success of your project – is really your call.

Regards

Suzanne

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15 Responses to “The Pony Boot Project”

  1. Great project! So great being able to create the things you like :)
    May I comment that in my opinion the boots looks sexier, fetishier before you applied the fur, but that just me :)
    Do you think the would be relatively comfy also for someone not so agile in ballet boots as you?
    And do you have any experience how they compare comfy-wise with the punitive-shoes version?
    And big thnx for sharing with us

    • Sure you can. Like most things, taste is individual. :-)

      Some like, some don’t.

      Like me and those ridiculous platform shoes and boots with an orthopaedic grade arch for the foot. eg. take off the platform and you have a shoe with a 2″ heel… Why not just tie tin cans to the foot, stick a diamante on the toe, and be done with it. :-P

      You would have had a hard time seeing them with pink fur and feathers then?

      The black pair I have here in thigh high version, were chosen to be the “fetish” pair…They have some amazing modifications so I hope you’ll enjoy those better.

      Thanks for coming on over for a look,

      Suzanne

  2. Hi Suzanne!

    I’m not really sure how else I how contact you, since you (understandably) have hidden your email quite thoroughly. I’m a furry trying to make digigrade feet for a fursuit and I want to use pony boot design to do so. I have a high pair of ordinary heels to start with and because of the shape of the steel spring, I could modify them to resemble your pony boots or the Punitiveshoes pony shoes. I’d like to ask what part of your foot bears your weight when using the PS pony shoes? What features do pony boots where the toe is more horizontal have that an off the shelf shoe would need? Unfortunately, modifying purchased pony boots would be prohibitively expensive.
    If you have time, I’d love to hear from you. Thanks you!

    Violet

  3. Luv them !!!!! were could I purchase

  4. Do you know anywhere else that sells pony boots? I’ve so far only seen Punitive Shoes and ebay…

  5. Thank you SO much for sharing your project with us ! ! !

    I have been looking for either good directions or a site to purchase for some time.

    The vendors’ offerings seemed to have drawbacks. I previously found several directions and http://www.pets-and-owners.de/lib/others/boots/hoofall.html was most potentially useful.

    Laying it side-by-side with yours is extremely helpful in filling in gaps in my understanding.

    Regarding shoes, I offer the following potential resources:

    http://www.ponywair.com/products.html
    The Pony shoe is for the little ones.
    Comes in seven different colors. Black, Blue, Green, Magenta, Purple, Red, Yellow
    Sizes 0-1 in pairs of 5 per box.
    Available in a narrow Please call for details. 877-225-8058

    ponywair@ponywair.com
    sales@ponywair.com


    http://www.cooperhandtools.com/europe/farrier…/pdf…/Diamond_Cat.pdf
    CooperTools Customer Service Representative -
    Phone: (919) 362-1670
    Fax: (877) 387-0415

    Specialty Shoes – Pony
    Forged from special steel (like the regular horseshoe) to
    give long wear Size/Cat. UPC Length Width Approx. Wgt.

    Size UPC Length Width Weighto. No. (Inches) (Inches) Each (oz.)
    0PONY 043127100383 3 3/4 3 5/16 5.0
    1PONY 043127100406 4 1/16 3 7/16 5.3

    Farm & Fleet of Muscatine
    3300 North Highway 61
    Muscatine, IA 52761-5814
    Phone 563.263.6615

    http://www.spanishlake.com/shop/Horseshoes-Specialty_Horseshoes_%28Arabian__to_Walking_Horse%29-Sliding_Plates/c/114/

    There are 4 stock sizes in sliding plates. All sliders are 1/4″ thick. Stock widths are 3/4″, 7/8″ and 1 1/8″. The other measurement that is shown on all sliders is the length of the straight bar of steel prior to bending into the shoe. Those lengths are 10″, 11″, 12″ and 13″. Of course the width and length of each turned shoe is appropriate for the standard hoof sizes, and they correspond in this way:

    10″ sliders are the approximate size of a #00 keg shoe
    11″ sliders are the approximate size of a #0 keg shoe
    12″ sliders are the approximate size of a #1 keg shoe
    13″ sliders are the approximate size of a #2 keg shoe

    Because of the intended function of the shoe, they are slightly longer than their Keg shoe counterpart.

    I hope this helps.

    Bob Schantz
    Spanish Lake Blacksmith Shop
    bob@spanishlake.com
    Office (636) 463-7211
    Cell (636) 887-1825

    1″x11″ slider Kerckhaert
    Product Code: SKSL111
    Shipping Weight: 1.46 lbs.

    Again, thank you ! ! !

    Whinnies ! ! !

  6. I love the back you made on your shoes; toppling and breakng an ankle is so inconvenient and graceless!

    One Ideal I am exploring is extending the width and length (forward) a bit. I’m modeling it right now.

    One thing that I don’t think any designers are addressins is reinforcing the ankle. I say this as I have had a fantasy (another kind). There was a faun who attended a Rennaissance Faire in Northern California for many years. He never said a word, sat in trees, vanished, reappeared and seemed to move from place to place never walking.

    Anyway, I was looking to create a horse hoof that I could use outside (and I love Clydesdales and Percherons as their hooves are huge. I was deciding whether to make an inside boot (for securing the foot and leg to the shoe) and one that zipped overtop to make it look nicer.

    You seem the expert on the modifying and the professional companies have their standard tiny hoof (which I am too much of a clutz to not harm myself; their products are excellent; I need a bit of work.

    Perhaps you have given the idea of staying afoot (sorry for the pun) some thought. I am considering it in the casting or the cutting of the collars or cutting the whole shoe out of wood and putting a nicely colored collar/facing on the hoof proper.

    Mitch

  7. Hey Suzanne! In many ways these pony-shoes look like they’d be more difficult to walk around in than your ballet-heels. How do you find them? More or less difficult? What about the amount of platform that they have? Does that make for more difficulty. Whatever, You ingenuity and creativity never cease to amaze me! XOXOXOX

Trackbacks/Pingbacks

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